"Donor Wearing Collar and Belt"
Lateran Manuscript, Bibliotheque Nationale, Paris. I speculate this picture is late 14th Century.
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| MEN'S COTEHARDIES | |||||||||||||||||||
| Men also wore the form-fitting garment known as the cotehardie from the early 14th Century through the 16th Century. Styles of course varied again over time and region, but they remained very similar in design to this garment. Men's cotehardies for the most part seemed to appear at lengths above the knee (through there are exceptions) which is the main difference from the feminine aspect of the garment. I must apologize however because I have fewer period depictions of men in cotehardie garments--they're a little difficult to come by. Most here have that "stuffed shirt" style to them--which is not generally what we consider to be a cotehardie. However, some pictures do have accurate representations. I have also never made a man's cotehardie, so I cannot give you an accurate representation to how it is done, but I do know many men that do make them. I will endeavor to find and post their experiences on this page when time allows. | |||||||||||||||||||
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| Drool... What else can I say? Not only is this stylish guy wearing tights, but he's also wearing what I consider to be the perfect male cotehardie. It's done in red and gold brocade, with fur trimmed cuffs. He's wearing a beautiful metal belt and amulet and a hat hangs over his shoulders. (I believe this hood is known as a liripipe, but don't quote me on it.) He's obviously a wealthy man to be dressed the way he is. And a red head to boot... Go figure. :) All I can tell you about this painting: "Donor Wearing Collar and Belt" Lateran Manuscript, Bibliotheque Nationale, Paris. I speculate this picture is late 14th Century. |
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| To your right is that illumination of "Charles V Receiving a Bible from His Courtier," c. 1372, attrib. Jean de Bruges, The Hague. Again, it is the pinacle of the representation of the perfect male cotehardie. Down the front also note the buttons most likely made from the same fabric as the garment itself, and the wide metal belt. This guy is also manly enough to wear tights. Let me tell you, if I had a waist and legs like this guy, I'd be wearing this outfit too! | |||||||||||||||||||
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| This painting by Nicolo da Bologna (Nicolo Giacomo; fl. 1351-1399) c. 1380 is known as "De Bello Pharsalico." (Milan) It shows the more "stuffed shirt" variety of garment that I was speaking of above. I see more men in this style of cotehardie (if you will permit me to call it thus) and I'm not certain why. It appears it may have something to do with being part of a suit of armor. Note however that the cotehardie shape is still in use, along with its other stylistic elements. You see the hip belts, the trim waist, some buttoning down the sleeves, and the same relative length. In the center you also see dagging on the overcoat of the "king" (for lack of a better name for the guy). This picture also shows a wide variety of caps, cloaks and armor. I encourage you to look at it further, because there are a great number of details too numerous to mention here. | |||||||||||||||||||
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The Cotehardie Documentation Page is republished on The Garb Index by the kind permission of Ariadne la Noire.