A Look at the Precursors to the Cotehardie...

This piece is typical of the style of Western European clothing worn before the cotehardie.  The tunics are noticeably loose fitting, yet have sleeves increasingly fitted as they go towards the wrist.  Some people would call this a Norman Tunic or T-Tunic style.  It is a typical 13th Century garment for both men and women.  Notice they are belted at the waist here, but in Italian paintings women have been seen with it gathered below the breast.  Also note the surcoat worn in this picture.  This is a French illumination on partchment called "The Count of Meliacin" painted by Girardin d'Amiens c. 1270.

You cannot see the sleeves here or the waist of this religious work, but it is useful because it dictates the type of fabric that the earlier garments were made of.  This piece is obviously called "Madonna and Child." It was painted by Pietro Lorenzetti c. 1320.  It now resides in Pieve di Santa Maria, Arezzo (Italy).   Like above, the garment is loose fitting.  As a general note, the closer you come to the 14th Century, the tighter and more ornate the sleeves start to become (some get buttoned or laced at the wrists).  I believe this is a good indicator of a piece's time period.  I speculate this style likely came about because people were getting annoyed with dripping their loose sleeves in food--or other less desireable places.  I speak from experience. :)

This is a Swiss parchment miniature from a Manesse Song Collection painted about 1300 to 1320.  I brought this out because this is right before the cotehardie really hit the fashion news.  Note the woman's surcoate and the man's.  Beneath are relatively tight-sleeved garments that are the harbingers of clothing to come.  There are a lot of other details to this piece, especially on the knight's armor.  Notice his shoes, spurs and his shoulder "guard".  Exquisite.

This is the only picture I can actually find that documents the article of clothing known as the Bliaut or Bliaud.  This particular piece is called "The Foolish Virgins" and was painted by an anonymous artist during the 13th Century.  It hangs in Chapel, Hocheppen Castle near Bozen.  (I presume this is Germany...Anyone? Anyone?)  From what I gather this clothing style was present during this time and earlier in both the Germanies and the French territories.  Perhaps even Britain, but I'm not sure about that.  This is a little different from the looser tunics of the time, but notice the long flowing sleeves and the extremely tight torso area.  I can't wait to try to make one of these. :)

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The Cotehardie Documentation Page is republished on The Garb Index by the kind permission of Ariadne la Noire.